Cosmeceutical
A product positioned between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, containing biologically active ingredients (such as peptides) intended to have therapeutic effects on the skin beyond simple cosmetic enhancement. The term is not officially recognised by regulatory authorities, and cosmeceuticals do not undergo drug approval processes.
Technical Context
The term 'cosmeceutical' was coined by Albert Kligman in 1984 to describe products with biologically active ingredients that have both cosmetic and therapeutic effects. Critically, regulatory frameworks do not recognise this category: products are regulated either as cosmetics (requiring only safety substantiation, no efficacy proof) or as drugs/medicines (requiring clinical trials and regulatory approval). In the US, any product claiming to 'treat', 'cure', or 'modify the structure or function of the body' is classified as a drug regardless of marketing positioning. Peptide-containing skincare products exist in this regulatory grey zone — they are marketed as cosmetics (avoiding drug claims) but imply therapeutic benefits through terminology like 'stimulates collagen production' or 'reduces wrinkle depth'. The lack of regulatory efficacy requirements means: formulations may contain peptides at sub-therapeutic concentrations, delivery may be inadequate for dermal penetration, and clinical claims may not be supported by robust evidence.